"The 2023 Brut Contadino enlivens the senses with a burst of white smoke, dried herbs and confectionery peach sorbet. This is savory—nearly salty—with a chiseled bead of mineral-inflected bubbles and tart orchard fruits that add further tension toward the close. This cleans up beautifully with a counterpoint between pretty inner sweetness and hints of sour lime. The 2023 is serious and fun at the same time."